![]() ![]() He recommended a 10 to 15 psi pump, however all I could find in town was a 9 psi pump. I ordered one, but in the mean time he said I could use a universal fuel transfer pump to provide fuel until tomorrow. I called Pape machinery, they sent a tech up, and he discovered the the fuel transfer pump had failed and he believed that to be the issue. I even drained the bottom 5 gallons out of the tank incase it was water / contaminated. This morning replaced the filter, primed the filter with new diesel and it still wouldnt fire. I believed it was a fuel issue, possibly a filter dirty or maybe water in the fuel. ![]() After some trying and quite a bit of cranking, I got it to idle again, but shorty after a minute or two, it died. I verified there is plenty of fuel in the tank, manually cranked it over and started it, but as soon as the load picked up, it struggled and died. Idling up, then down and fighting, then finally shutting down. I have a JD 4024 model 30kw generator that we use with our off-grid home.Įverything was good, I took a fuel tank to town for diesel and filled it with 250 gallons, brought it home and only put about 25 gallons in the generators base fuel tank before getting distracted, moving on and going inside.Īround midnight, I heard the generator struggling, almost like it was running out of fuel. If the tractor doesn't start using the standard circuitry (K3 relay and thermistor), but does start when bypassing these components with this test, we know that the fuel shutoff solenoid is not the problem.Quick background with as many details as I can provide. Not sure why we are even discussing this since the test to bypass the K3 relay and thermistor described in this posting (#17) is so simple. If the seals on a fuel injection pump start to fail, it may result in diesel fuel leaking into the crankcase, but it doesn't start to "make" engine oil and send it to the fuel shutoff solenoid, so the suggestion that there could be something wrong with the fuel injection pump that is creating extra oil and fouling the fuel shutoff solenoid valve also seems very unlikely. While it is possible that there is something unique to your installation that causes these normally oil laden solenoid valves to stop being capable of retraction with a fully functional fuel shutoff solenoid drive circuit, it seems very unlikely. ![]() This workaround might be OK during summer, but I don’t want to be doing this chore during the winter!ĭoes anyone understand why oil is getting to the solenoid? What is the root cause of the problem? Is the injector pump leaking and that’s why the solenoid gets flooded?Ĭlick to expand.There are probably hundreds of thousands of these Yanmar engines running with a fuel shutoff solenoid in the end of the fuel injection pump, and all of them are constantly exposed to engine oil. It works at least once so I can get the tractor started again, but usually I have to do the chore again to get it started again. I can spend 30 minutes removing the solenoid, manually pump the pin a few times, to flush out the oil, and then the solenoid will function again. Now I’ve discovered oil gets inside the solenoid and hydrostatically floods the magnets inside preventing the pull back pin from functioning. When the problem started happening again, I simply bought another solenoid (fuel shutoff solenoid part # m810324) and swapped it out myself. Had the tractor towed into repair center and they installed a new fuel shutoff solenoid. Last year my 4300 developed a no start problem I couldn’t resolve. ![]()
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